Western Australia Week 7 Part 2

Pemberton
November 4th 2009
Wednesday - Day 45

We took today fairly casually and didn’t push the go button much. Admittedly I took a walk up through the town around 8ish to the lane behind the Fine Furniture Gallery where I spotted a red eared finch last time. Unfortunately it wasn’t about but the walk was a good heart starter.
Near the van there is a bridge that leads through a school camp and into a hill. I tried it mid morning and as luck would have it I stumbled onto some more red winged wrens on my return. This time they sat still in the open, allowing for a better exposure.

After a light lunch we visited the fine furniture gallery and had a coffee at the café there. The owners stopped to talk about photography on seeing my camera and lens and told us that they are about to sell up and start a photographic studio. We talked about processing photos on canvas and things. I hope they do well and that there is a future in it for them.

We drove to Big Brook Dam but came across the kids from the camp learning to raft. A frustrated teacher was chastising them about the need to stay in the canoes. “I‘ve already got two in the water to save! I can’t handle four or five as well!!” He was losing it big time, his voice drifting across the lake towards us as we left.

A red eared finch appeared on cue, just as I returned from another late afternoon stroll. By the time I collected my camera it was gone. It was a definite sighting however, bird number 150 for the trip and fittingly a sought after sighting.

Glenda made some banana chocolate chip muffins which she shared with a couple nearby (without Cain and Ryan around she had to share them with someone).

At 6 p.m. I took the training at the Pemberton Goju Ryu Karate Club which trains in the sports centre next to the caravan park. Two brown belts normally run the class which had a number of juniors. We covered the Okinawan warm up and some simple tuite (old style or koryu) techniques before looking at their Kata. I did an Iaido demonstration which they hadn’t seen. They were very appreciative and I think they enjoyed something new to their normal training.

At 8.30 p.m. we tuned to SBS to watch a documentary on “The Samurai”, a Japanese children’s series run in the 1960s. This program influenced me tremendously as a child and got me into martial arts. It was a nostalgic trip down memory lane but to listen to those interviewed who were also there put some new perspectives on it for me.
Bird sightings: Red eared finch, 150 birds 5 new birds

Pemberton
November 5th 2009
Thursday - Day 46

The Karri Forest Explorer was a self conducted drive around the district taking in sites of significance as well as the growing wine estates. The day was muggy and reached about 26 degrees. Glenda packed some sandwiches for lunch to have somewhere on the way.

Beedleup Falls

A radio broadcast could be tuned into along the way and it told of the struggle to save the forest from logging in the 1970s. We stopped at various spots and took lots of shots to try and capture the feeling of these huge trees.
The three tree species grow together but in some parts one species might dominate. At various times in history one would be in flavour or suddenly fall from grace and the others were felled.
Glenda took photos of typical examples of each species albeit the leaf and fruit should be considered 1) Jarrah, 2) Marri, 3) Karri

The roads were mainly unsealed and we descended down Heart Break Trail to the river for lunch at Warren Campsite.
Inevitably our drive brought us to the Bicentennial Tree, a fire watch platform attached to the top of a 60 meter karri tree. We were here five years ago and today was to give closure to something that happened back then.

In Search of Noel
To set the scene for today’s adventure the following extract from our 2004 diary needs to be read:
“Week 12–Wednesday, 15th September 2004
Pemberton.

……… The drive took us into more thick karri trees with the “Bicentennial Tree” the main attraction. It was, unfortunately another “must climb” job, so an Irishman and I headed up to the applause of our two partners.
Like at the Gloucester Tree, I immediately felt my fear and a touch of vertigo after a short distance so the climb was not pleasant. Fortunately the Irish lad was also suffering but neither of us was going to admit defeat. This was a great example of misplaced National pride.
This tree was about 10 meters taller (than the Glouster Tree) and had a few platforms at varying heights. It was a much more challenging climb, particularly when my Irish climbing mate pointed out how thin the trunk was becoming after 50 plus meters. “Reassuring observation, mate!”
I got him back though, for I pointed out to him when we were secure on the top platform that he needn’t be concerned about the trunk as it had disappeared and it was below us and that we were somehow attached to the very top of the tree. We could feel the tree swaying. We both sank to the floor in unison; synchronised swimmers couldn’t have done it better! A mutual agreement that a long stay up there wasn’t a necessity was spontaneously reached.
I left the Irishman sitting on the floor at the top and headed down. On landing his spouse looked at me puzzled and asked in a beautiful Irish brogue; “Where’s Noel?”
She turned her head skyward and bellowed “Noel! When are you coming down?”
A pensive reply fluttered down, “I’ll…I’ll be down directly…” As we drove away he was still up there.”

Today’s climb was no different, my physical fear of heights making the climb the challenge, not the exertion itself. A Welshman climbed in front of me to the first platform which was about 20 meters up. He was satisfied with that but I pushed on. The last 15 meters is basically a tower that has been built on the tree top, the trunk becoming narrower until the top limbs end below one of the four platforms within the tower. There is a noticeable sway as you get higher and climbers are warned not to attempt the ascent if it is at all windy or they have self doubts.
I reached the top and took some quick shots before heading back down. My mission was complete; Noel was not still up there.

We visited the cascades which were a series of small drops on a peaceful brook before heading back to the van. I was tired and Glenda had booked in to get a trim at the local hairdresser. She came back surprised that it cost $40 for the trim compared to $20 back home. Not bad for 20 minutes work.

An older guy next door stopped by for a beer and a chat and had us both laughing. Then a young bloke from Geelong ventured by and talked about his trip around the block. He’d been made redundant by Ford and was making the most of his redundancy package. Both had good yarns to tell.

Pemberton – Windy Harbour
November 6th 2009
Friday - Day 47
We had no firm destination other than to explore the national parks to the south. A farewell to our neighbours who had booked for 13 nights at Pemberton and we moved on.

Northcliffe had an information centre and I chatted to a guy who I was told printed photos onto canvas. His name was Graeme and he showed me his production room next to the info centre. All in all his work was quite impressive and reasonably priced. All I required was a suitable photo.

Eventually we decided to give Windy Harbour a go and drove the 27 kms from Northcliffe just before midday. Fortunately there was hardly a breeze but the trees are a tell tale sign that strong south westerlies are common. The harbour is more a bay with very soft sand. There are no freehold places; all the little “shanties” are leased. Flies were an immediate problem so heavy use of Aerogard was needed.

There was no one around when we pulled up so we set ourselves up in the first of ten powered sites. Because the power is drawn from solar batteries we cannot have any heating elements on or the power fails. We found this out the hard way before a fill-in caretaker dropped by for a yarn. He was called out several times during the afternoon to use his grader to pull cars and boat trailers through the sand and off the beach.

We drove through the D’Entrecasteaux National Park and took in some beautiful spots including Point D’Entrecasteaux. The views were great as were the physical features carved out of the limestone by the wind and rain.

Late afternoon I ventured to the beach and caught a small flock of waders. Initially I recognised two out of the three species present. With migrating waders it is always difficult as they don’t have their distinctive breeding plumage and tend to have the same drab colouring. My photos showed a few larger ones with black legs that had no hind toes. They were therefore sanderlings, a first sighting for me. The bird and I were both dancing!

Just before dusk I drove to Sunset Lookout but the angle of the sun and the clouds were not conducive to any sort of photo. I sat on the cliff listening to the sound track of “Once Upon a Time in America” before heading back to the van fast to the accompaniment of the music of Buddy Guy. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.

Glenda was producing her magic in the form of chilli chicken pasta. It was a peaceful night although the wind has picked up and tomorrow’s weather could be anything.
Bird Sightings: Red necked stint, Ruddy turnstone, Sanderling, 153 birds 6 new birds

Windy Harbour - Manjimup
November 7th 2009
Saturday - Day 48

Wimmbrel

A quick walk to the beach just before 8 a.m. saw a number of 4x4’s taking boats to the sea. A couple of ladies from Pemberton told me of a baby whale that was beached and put down by rangers a week ago. The thought of a huge carcass attracting ocean going scavengers was enough to set me off at a jog.

About halfway to the point the rain started and stayed with me for the 3 – 4 kms that it took to find the place. Apparently the rangers had buried the remains in the sand hills behind the beach. They did an excellent job for I found nothing.
We decided to pack up and drive to Manjimup for a few days before heading back south east. I have a training organised with Klaus Mueller of the W.A. Goju Karate Kai group so a stay here is in order.

The dear old lady at the Info Centre was quite helpful when I asked her where I might see some local birds; “Why they’re everywhere, dear. Just sit still somewhere and perhaps drop some crumbs…” I nearly took her out with a right cross. Thank God I can keep my cool and a straight face!

Glenda bought two huge 500g punnets of large strawberries for $2.50 each. These were delicious and cheap so we dined on them for afternoon tea.
Manjimup is a small town but a main road and centre for all kinds of human endeavour. We’ll explore the surrounds over the next few days and hopefully have some down time.
Bird Sightings: whimbrel, musk duck, 155 birds 6 new birds

Manjimup
November 8th 2009
Sunday - Day 49

We slept in til 9.30! We turned in 12 hours before so a good rest must have been in order. My thighs are aching from the climb last Thursday so some light exercise is in order.

The manageress, Marissa dropped by just after I’d finished my shower with a plate of scones, jam and cream. What a great gesture! Talking to her husband Jeff later and I complemented them on the small touches they were doing to the park. He told me of the state it was in when they first took over, the persuasion of some permanents to move and the general clean and tidy up. I can thoroughly recommend the Warren Way Caravan Park at Manjimup.

We drove to the Diamond Jubilee tree, another climbable lookout but decided not to given the soreness in my thighs and training tomorrow night. We watched a few youngsters climb up and it was gratifying to see them slow down after a short way up. We opted for a 400 metre circuit walk and noticed the wildflowers looking just past their peak. We’ve been very lucky with wildflowers this trip.

Other places we saw were Fonty’s Pool which had a very green and well manicured caravan park for next time plus an old church on the eastern side of town. A King Jarrah tree gave us another 600 metre walk and for the first time I’m getting just a bit forested out. On the way back we stopped to look at a great crested grebe nesting in a large dam. Interestingly, we note that the dams all over are all full to the brim. Hope it’s like this in Victoria.

Tonight we responded to an invitation to all campers to a roast dinner at the kiosk for $12.50 each. It’s about time I cooked so this was my token gesture. Two elderly ladies were there, one from Germany many years ago. We engaged in some thoughtful discussion about post WW2 and living in Australia. Another couple, Peter and Dawn from NSW also engaged us with some tales about their travels. They put their gold Honda on the Indian Pacific Railway and will drive back across the Nullarbor. It was a good meal and enjoyable company.
We’re both missing our kids at the moment but we’ll see them in four weeks which is manageable. Heck! The way time is flying four weeks is nothing!

Bird Sightings: Brown falcon, Great crested grebe, 157 birds 6 new birds