Western Australia Week 2

Ceduna
Sunday, September 27th
Day 7
The wind has stopped but today has been overcast. An early morning walk got rid of the cobwebs but achieved little else in terms of bird sightings.
Glenda worked most of the morning on the blog site while I tried to photograph the singing honeyeaters that take over much of the area. I took a snap of a koori woman who was “camping” on the foreshore with her child. Seemed happy enough but somehow all didn’t feel comfortable.
We walked to the pier and surveyed the few fishermen who had gathered, squid being the main catch. We returned to the van in time to take out a loaf of bread that Glenda had made. Yes folks, we can do without most modern devices but the bread maker is one we’ve developed a warm addiction too. The tell tale drool from our immediate neighbours suggests we are not alone in our preference for fresh bread.
After lunch we ventured done with Glenda’s rod, mine having succumbed to corrosion and poor (none!) maintenance. We were both keen to try some of the plastic lures which are receiving good reviews in local fishing shows.
The wind was not of any significance but quite cold so we only lasted a couple of hours. A highlight came with a school of yellow finned tuna that swam lazily by. One came over to look at Glenda’s lure before returning to the school. Hate to think how short a time the line would have lasted as these fish were the size of small dolphins.
With the awning down we had a happy hour outside. Maybe it’s the fresh air or the exertion of fishing but another early night circa 8.30 p.m. looks likely.
Tomorrow is the beginning of week two of this trip. It’s gone fast but a lot of interesting things have happened. We are so fortunate.
Bird Sightings: Sooty oystercatcher, Pied oystercatcher, Pacific black backed gull
77 birds 1 new bird

Ceduna
September 28th 2009
Monday - Day 8
Perfect weather! A clear, cloudless sky, blue sea and no wind. A great day for travel but equally a great day to just relax. Not really us but we’re getting there.

We’ve decided that Mondays will be cleaning days so after a leisurely wake up we got stuck into dusting, washing the awning of the van and generally tidying things up. It doesn’t take long compared to house work so I vacuumed the front floor of the car which still has a layer of dried mud just waiting for a rainy day.


Glenda cooked up some chicken and rice in the Ecopot (thermal cooker) and we headed off to Decree Bay and Laura Bay for a look see. Both lay around 20 plus kms to the east of Ceduna along a dirt road. The Decree Bay area had mangroves and crystal clear water. It was serenely quiet and we enjoyed a walk along Fox Creek and just looking at the ocean. There were no whales about but that didn’t matter. Small flocks of budgerigars were noticeable.
Because its spring lots of shingle back lizards are crossing the roads in pairs doing what lizards do at this time of mating. The road takes its toll on many but fortunately some are able to get down and procreate the species successfully. We saw a black snake and a few smaller reptiles but generally it was a slow drive through tracks that led to small bays and cliffs such as “Dog Point” and other inspiring names.
We ended up having lunch back at the van and generally just reading. Another dozen oysters for dinner and a homemade pizza made for a good day. Lots of tents appeared tonight and the park is filling up again after a couple of days of not too many vans. I imagine tomorrow there will be quite a bit of traffic heading west and east.
A couple from Victoria asked where we were from and mentioned the McNamara family, good friends of our kids. Another “small world” experience of which we have so many.
Bird Sightings white browed scrub wren
78 birds 1 new bird

Ceduna – Nullabor Plain
September 29th 2009
Tuesday - Day
Alas another windy day although not as strong as our last move forward. We hoped to find a free camp just past the Nullarbor roadhouse but to also have a good look on the way.
It was about ten to Nine when we left Ceduna with a north easterly wind keeping us to 80 kms per hour which seemed about right. We noticed miles of cleared mallee scrub turned to pasture with some crops which didn’t look too vigorous. The pasture though greenish from the recent rains had very little in the way of stock close to the road so to us it looked like wasted land use.
About 80 kms west of Ceduna mallee scrub returned and we were reminded of land north of home in our mallee region. The Yulata area has reverted back to the indigenous landowners and is all stunted mallee with salt bush understorey. The roadhouse has since closed so we kept topping up with fuel just in case.
We drove down to Fowlers Bay and had a look. A lone whale was there but the wind made a long stay not too pleasant in the 32 degree heat. We took the alternate route back to the highway and noted a greenshank and confirmed a crimson chat amongst many probables along the way.
The Head of the Bight turn off came upon us suddenly so we ventured down for a $12 each look at the whales. We were not disappointed as about 10 mothers and calves were waiting. Some were feeding while others were frolicking about. It was windy and the flies were too friendly but what an incredible sight!

We could have stayed longer but the flies got the better of us and the whales began to settle.


The Nullarbor Roadhouse served petrol at $1.60 and had the unique method of holding your driver’s licence while you filled up. It was returned with your payment receipt. Appears too much drive a ways got to the proprietor so he instigated these measures.
We found a wayside stop about 27 kms west of the roadhouse with a good stand of low trees, just enough to give us some shelter. It’s about 100 metres in but the lack of dense forest makes it visible from a long way. It’ll do okay as a free camp.
Bird Sightings: Little crow, Crimson chat, Western ringneck, Greenshank, Australian raven
83 birds 1 new bird
WOMBAT (road kill), RIGHT WHALE








Nullabor Plain – Madura
September 30th 2009
Wednesday - Day 10
We had another peaceful night at this free camp which was …what’s the name of the beast? Oh yes, Camp 666. No rain overnight but ominous skies made us pack up and get onto the bitumen early.
The wind has eased but drizzle soon began with the occasional downpour. We had plenty of time so we took in all the cliff edges that were on offer. None quite as spectacular as yesterdays but we spotted another whale and a dolphin at one of them.
Just before the border we ate our last remaining bananas as the Quarantine Check is always fairly thorough. No dramas and quite friendly compared to the body search we nearly had last time going across the top end.
With views almost at white out stage due to the weather we pushed on rather than risk an off road camp in the boggy conditions. The lady at one roadhouse complained that she had scrimped and saved every drop of water in her 10 years there and had put in extra tanks. Now they were overflowing and one petrol bowser lane was underwater. She was hopeful of having a garden this year for the first time.
We decided to stay at Madura and recharge the batteries (and have a shower). It’s going to be another rainy night so we probably won’t try for the Eyre Bird Observatory until the trip back. I spent some time looking about the scrub and chanced upon two families of blue breasted wrens. I’d only ever glimpsed this species before so the hunt to get a good picture was worth it.
Glenda has a loaf of bread on the go which smells fantastic. Lamb steak and stir fried vegetables for dinner. No mobile network so no internet or contact with home… It’s okay.
Bird Sightings: White winged triller, Major Mitchell cockatoo, Weebill, Blue breasted wren
87 birds 1 new bird
DOLPHIN

Madura – Fraser Range Area
October 1st 2009
Thursday - Day 11
At $25 a night Madura was a fairly basic van park. We were one of only three campers who stayed the night, an estimated 20 vans free camping just up the road to the east. The showers were adequate but the owners are currently giving a token to each person for one shower only, a reflection on how difficult it is water wise out here.
With the clock two hours behind Victoria I was pleased to sleep through to 6 a.m. W.A. time as it makes acclimatisation easier. We took our time as usual and stopped at the top of Madura Pass for a photograph of the flat land below the escarpment. It’s always a treat to see this landscape. A few showers hit during the drive but none with the intensity of this last week. There were signs that a lot of rain had fallen in some areas as we headed west but generally we were spared any real downpours. The wind too was kind to us.
Fuel was $1.65 just east of Madura and at Belladonia they asked $1.75 a litre plus a two litre carton of milk was $6.80. Even the young guy serving said it was a bit much. Too bloody right we thought and resolved to carry extra milk when we next come through.
At last we finally spotted a wedge tailed eagle. Due to the rain they had been absent from the roadside kills that drew so many the last time we came across.
We settled on a free camp near Fraser Ranges. It lies at the back of a sealed wayside stop but with a bit of careful driving we could easily get through to a large area criss-crossed by tracks and former camp sites. Sadly the area was strewn with the debris of thoughtless campers; cartons, bottles and the usual waste. We arrived about 3.30 p.m. so set about collecting and cutting wood for a fire tonight. The weather remained around 15 degrees and it feels like a cold night lies ahead.
Bird Sightings: Silver eye, White winged wren, Wedge tailed eagle
90 birds 1 new bird

Fraser Range - Esperance
October 2nd 2009
Friday - Day 12
An excellent night with no wind and a perfect fire thanks to the abundance of dried branches. I discovered that the long stringy bark from the trees fires up and lights the fire to great effect.
Again with the time difference it was understandable that I was up circa 6 a.m. As the bush came to life I sat with my coffee and watched as a number of games unfolded. Firstly, I was alerted to the ever squawking red wattle birds thrashing about in the top of the canopy nearby. I assumed that it was a territorial dispute but was amazed to see two birds actually “bathing” in the dew on the upper leaves. A few other birds joined in this arborial bath followed by some early morning preening. You can learn something new every day.
Other activities included the harassing of an Australian raven by a gang of mixed birds. I’m sure that most nesting birds hate these marauders who take young chicks from nests but on this occasion the noisy miners were joined by red wattlebirds and a butcherbird in driving the culprit away. All very entertaining to the avid bird watcher.
The sun was out and the green of the trees contrasted beautifully between the clear blue of the sky and the red sand of the earth. We were away by 9 a.m. and soon reached Norseman. We hadn’t had a phone network since Tuesday so it was good to catch up on news from home.
Esperance appeared around 1 p.m. and we set up at the Bathers Paradise Caravan Park, a small concern but quite shady and quiet. It’s $25 per night because of school holidays. The town seems quite full and busy so it’ll be a contrast to the last few days.
Old friend Rod Hilton, now living in Esperance turned up around 5 p.m. and we chatted for an hour before he headed off to get his wife, Ann to take us to the Yacht Club for dinner. It was a fine meal with old friends followed by a stroll to a café on the beach for coffee. We’re going sailing tomorrow afternoon which should be good fun and then out to Cape Le Grande on Sunday. Busy and fun times ahead!


Esperance
October 3rd 2009
Saturday - Day 13
Dark clouds moved in from the south, obscuring the horizon as I strolled along the beach just after 6 a.m. Dogs are permitted on the beach between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. so a few ladies and their large dogs were moving about, all at a faster pace than me. I had my binoculars but not too many sea birds were braving the cold.
Eventually some rain fell but nothing near what I thought might be in store. There is a pair of yellow throated miners in our park that are obviously nesting. I’ve never been swooped by one before and didn’t expect that type of behaviour. It came as a shock therefore when they repeatedly attacked me when we were setting up yesterday. Either they’re fans of Alfred Hitchcock films or they’ve been consorting with magpies in nesting season. To their credit they have kept it up but so far no blood has been drawn.
Rod dropped in around 10 o’clock and took us to a walk near the original wind farm in the town. Good views of the sea but the overcast conditions were not helpful. He insisted on taking us to his place for lunch which Ann had prepared. Their son, James was about and was press ganged into coming with us on the boat as an extra crew member. Glenda and Ann went shopping for tomorrow’s day trip.



I met the skipper, John and his wife Adele at the yacht marina together with Ian, a local Scotsman who has lived here for 10 years. John and Adele have owned the Seafront Caravan Park for the last 38 years (that we are staying in a small but rival park was a point of good humoured banter). A young lass, Lisa from the Shire was also along for the ride. Rod and Ian crew for John and his wife every Saturday during race season which begins next weekend. Today was all about refreshing and reminding themselves on how to sail a yacht in preparation for the first race.
We motored out into the harbour before hauling on the main lanyard to raise the main sail. We did the same with the foresail and soon began to settle in to “coming about”, “easing off” and all those sailing terms that now started to make sense. We headed out to the near islands and John told us some of the historical stuff surrounding them. How they had run into an island last year while trying out the spinnaker was a laugh. In all, it was very pleasant and a great way to put in an afternoon. A sea eagle on an outer island was a highlight for all, not just the guest twitcher.

Adele asked me to call Glenda when we returned to port so that she could join us for a few drinks and nibbles. It was a very civilised way to end a day’s sailing and we could have settled in, just floating there snugly around a small table on the deck. There was no pretence here, just people enjoying an shared experience. I imagine that most race day’s would see all the crews enjoying a similar ambience, all tied alongside each other while exchanging the odd “comment” about the day’s race with those “rivals” within earshot. .
Bird Sightings: wattlebird, Crested tern, Sea Eagle, Brown honeyeater
94 birds 1 new bird
NZ FUR SEAL

Cape Arid
October 4th 2009
Sunday - Day 14
Ann and Rod met us at our park a bit after 9.15 a.m. for a day at Cape Arid. We took two cars and they picked up new comers to the town, Rowan and Emma.
It was over 120 kms to the Cape and on arrival we were met with a whale at nearby Thomas River. Ann, Glenda and I stayed and took photos while Rod and the others drove on to Dolphin Cove to met Gary and Karryn to start their dive. Unfortunately there wasn’t a spare thermal wet suit so I chose not to brave the cold conditions.

I managed a couple of shots of the whale about 40 meters or less from the shore and later, a juvenile did a mandatory breach for us when we moved to the next cove with the others. It took the five of them some time to don all their gear but as the water was very cold it was worth the effort. Ann and Glenda took photos of the many different wild flowers in bloom while I scouted around the bay and took some more whale shots and things.

The guys were down about 40 minutes and they emerged in choppy conditions. The 300 meter climb back to the cars took much of what energy they had left.
We drove around to the river beach and used the free BBQ for
lunch. Glenda put on the spread and as normal prepared much more than we could possibly consume. A banquet as opposed to a BBQ. It was a friendly gathering with the main chat about diving which Glenda and I enjoyed although we haven’t been in scuba gear for a few years.

The whole area around Esperance is spectacular, from its diverse flora and fauna to its breathtaking coastline. Wild life abounds and you could spend a good part of your life enjoying so many aspects of the area. The blues of the ocean are constantly changing with the cloud cover but when the sun breaks through the changing depths of the sea create beautiful contrasts from vivid turquoise to dark greens.
We left around 4 o’clock and came across a large flock of white tailed black cockatoos. We took lots of photos but can’t tell yet if any will be worthwhile until download time and photoshop work.

Tonight we’re both tired after a day in the salt air. Glenda is more like her old self and keen to get out and do things. This trip has been good for us in every way.
Bird Sightings: Black shouldered kite, Carnabys black cockatoo
96 birds 1 new bird